Tonga

Tonga, a world west of Niue by some four days and nights sail and around 20 years in advancement and culture behind! As The Kingdom of Tonga is still ruled by a reigning Monarchy and all the land and people belong to him and are under his governance, together with the fact that Tonga has never been ruled by another nation in its entire life time makes for some interesting cultural differences!

We arrived in the Ha'apai group and rested our weary bodies off the town dock in Lifuka for 2 nights whilst running through the formalities of clearing in and having customs check the vessel and so on. Within minutes of stepping ashore the island we had befriended many folk, who although shy at first, became openly friendly once you were past the ice-breaker stage. Dany got invited to school by her new friends within 5 minutes of knowing them.

The village is very quiet and relaxed. A very small town is found in Lifuka with mostly pigs roaming the streets and one or two Tongans. Of course Tonga boasts the infamy of the legendary Bounty affair, which was constantly in the back of our minds as we traversed the waters within its boundaries, knowing full well that Captain Bligh some 200 years before had faced his lifes most ultimate challenge in and around these same waters!

We moved on to various anchorages off islands with names such as Uoleva and Matuku. We spent some time in the latter and enjoyed getting to know the children and people of this tiny island. Jim, Vicki and Frank were treated to some magnificent whale sighting on our last day whilst Dany and Dylan were in church with newly found friends. Altogether a pleasant adventure which included gifts of fruit and shells too innumerable to count! Dylan was also lucky to attend a kava evening around the community radio listening to the sad game between Tonga and New Zealand in the rugby world cup! Sadly for the locals Tonga was badly defeated.

On our return to Lifuka via Uoleva we enjoyed a small feast with the locals on the beach as the sun set in the West. Walks along the beaches, dipping toes into the warm sun and basically enjoying the best of what the world has to offer was our lot whilst in the Ha'apai group and this we did with extraordinary fervour.

After some labour on the mizzen furling unit we headed back to Lifuka to say sad goodbyes to Dany, who had performed very admirably since stepping aboard in Rarotonga. It was her first experience on an ocean going yacht and one which she, along with all of us, will never forget. As her plane sped south towards Tongatapu we lifted anchor and headed south for the Nomuka group.

In Nomuka we had the pleasure of finding a deserted island named Kelefesia, which was superb. The forms of the rocks and sands, trees and hillocks were astounding and very enjoyable to experience close up. We had the island and anchorage to ourselves entirely for 4 good days of superb weather. Walks around the island and through the brush were undertaken and bird spotting surveys as well. Frank and Dylan were convinced there were wild pig, from spoor they picked up on, and rummaging marks they spotted, but others were sceptical.

Dylan borrowed one of the stored 'pirogues' or outriggers canoes and went on a spearfishing expedition of the outer reef in clear blue waters and beautiful coral surrounds. No fish but evidence of huge lobster were to be found. On the return home the paddle snapped and he had a hard time of making the shore again! Good memories.

We also had our Firebird Kava evening, which was great fun! Check out our pictures. 'Dick Schiezer' was our diety in whose honour the celebration was undertaken and he enjoyed it too and looked after us during our passage to New Zealand. Despite having broken a foot on the run to Tongatapu that is!

Tongatapu was somewhat different to the rest of Tonga and although we caught three tuna on the outskirts of the island we really spent most of our time prepping the vessel for the passage to NZ. Jim, Frank and Dylan enjoyed a day outing to the King's Castle and around the north and west parts of the island with some interesting luncheon adventures, but nevertheless most of the time we spent running through chores and checks.

We will be returning to Tonga on our way to Fiji next year and we plan to spend a lot more time in the Ha'apai group and will visit the Vavau group as well.