Marquesas

We have spent the last two months cruising and enjoying the Marquesas Islands, called by the local people "Fenua Enata", the Land of Man. Six islands, all within easy reach, all stunningly beautiful. Spires reach up 4,000 feet, with white cloud boas draped on their shoulders. Wild horses roam the green velvet hills and mountain goats scamper about the sheer cliffs. Valleys sink beneath verdant groves of coconut palms. The fragrance of gardenia and frangipani flowers mingles with the faint smoke of burning coconut husks. This is our daily "wallpaper". We have had nearly every anchorage to ourselves, since most cruising boats from the Americas will not arrive until next month.

There are no coral reefs here, but we have seen abundant sea life - pygmy orca whales, manta rays, dolphins that spin as they leap out of the water, sharks, and we have caught our own tuna, mahi-mahi and sailfish! Dylan has found many places to surf, and has even paddled borrowed Fenn surf skis.

Paul Gauguin, the painter, and Jacques Brel, the singer, called these islands home. Thor Heyerdahl wrote 'Fatu Hiva', a book about his adventures here in 1938, in an effort to escape the 'modern' world and seek a simpler life. Herman Melville wrote a fictional account of his brief stay here and called it 'Typee'.

The history of these islands is evident in the many archeological sites we have visited, where we have seen dozens of huge stone tikis (like Easter Island's but smaller), and heard stories of pre-Christian tribal habits (human sacrifice and cannibalism!). Years ago, both men and women were tattooed, sometimes over their entire bodies. This art form has been revived and many local people have beautiful tattoos, done in the traditional designs.

The Marquesean language is fascinating - only five vowel sounds and ten consonants, and each vowel is pronounced separately. Try Hanavave, that's easy. Try Haka Paa, Taipivai, Hooumi, Hana Moe Noa and Hakahetau! Some people speak French and we have managed to stumble along as Vicki tries to polish up her rusty French.

The population here is small and the people are all friendly and out-going. They are generous and trusting, and everyone seems quite content. Their homes are modern but modest, with unscreened windows and Polynesian flowered fabric for curtains. There are no bars, no crime to speak of, no rushing traffic, no sirens, no stop lights, only peace, contentment and solitude.

Technology reigns - some people have cell phones, computers and satellite dishes. We have not learned how the economy works exactly, but many people drive 4 x 4 double cab pickups (and we often hitch rides in the back). And everything is extremely expensive here. A gallon of gas is over $5, diesel over $4, a case of local beer over $60. Often, we cannot find fruit to buy. Everyone grows their own at home - bananas, mangos, pineapple, papaya, limes, pamplemousse - and some people have given us generous loads of fruit for nothing.

Life here is casual. The women often wear ring crowns of fresh flowers on their heads while riding around in T-shirts and shorts on their scooters. Popular sports are petanque (bowling on a sand court), pirogue racing, which is highly competitive, and volleyball and soccer for the young people. We have been to church several times (every Sunday, every village has Mass, always at 8 AM). The service is in Marquesean, and often guitar, mandolin and drums accompany the melodious singing. Quite marvelous and mesmerizing!

So our visit has been superb. We had only one major boat problem (had to order a new pump for the watermaker and have it shipped from the states), one major health problem (Vicki got over 300 'no-no' bites on her back and arms, which itched intensely for over two weeks), and one great sadness (Vicki's father passed away on February 26). This is a magical place on earth, and we are thankful that we have been given the opportunity to enjoy it here and now. Soon we leave, heading to the Tuamotu Islands. Can they be as wonderful?