The Galapagos, Ecuador

We motor-sailed the whole way to the Galapagos since there was no wind. It was a very quick and comfortable passage and we averaged over 200 miles per day. We made landfall on Santa Cruz Island in Puerto Ayora a.k.a. Academy Bay. We set a stern anchor, which was good practice for the future as we used it very often in the Marquesas. As Frank and Jake were already aboard we waited for the arrival of Paula (Frank's wife) and Netta, our 5th crew member for the passage to the Marquesas to arrive. After collecting them at the town dock we spent a few days in the town and just had to stop at the Charles Darwin Research centre. A highly educating tour of the premises ensued meeting Goerge the Lonely tortoise. He is the last of his kind in the world! Read more?

Pacific Crossing to the Marquesas

We have finally completed our passage from the Galapagos to the Marquesas. We made landfall on the island of Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas on Tuesday, February 18, 2003 at 9:30 AM local time. We traveled 2985 nautical miles from the Galapagos to Fatu Hiva. The passage took us 14 days, 22 hours, and 45 minutes, for an average daily run of 197.6 miles per day. This works out to an average speed for the passage of 8.2 knots. Read more?

The Marquesas

We have spent the last two months cruising and enjoying the Marquesas Islands, called by the local people "Fenua Enata", the Land of Man. Six islands, all within easy reach, all stunningly beautiful. Spires reach up 4,000 feet, with white cloud boas draped on their shoulders. Wild horses roam the green velvet hills and mountain goats scamper about the sheer cliffs. Valleys sink beneath verdant groves of coconut palms. The fragrance of gardenia and frangipani flowers mingles with the faint smoke of burning coconut husks. This is our daily "wallpaper". We have had nearly every anchorage to ourselves, since most cruising boats from the Americas will not arrive until next month. Read more?

The Tuamotus

We had a good passage from Ua Poa to Takaroa atoll, a distance of 450 miles, and had sunny skies but little wind and we were forced to motor sail or motor the whole way! We did have the benefit of a spectacular full moon to guide us though so that made up for the lack of wind! We had fishing adventures as always and Jim and Dylan landed a tuna and a mahi mahi. The tuna made for an excellent fresh dinner and the mahi was quickly converted into 'ceviche'. Read more?

Tahiti and Moorea

We arrived in Papeete, Tahiti this morning and were greeted by rainy weather and poor visibility. But when the sun rose we were treated to an intense, full-spectrum, full half-circle rainbow, and then a gang of spinning dolphins accompanied us as we entered the harbor!

It was only seven weeks ago that we spent our last few days in our beloved Marquesas Islands, with new friends, dining in their home on curried fresh water shrimp that they had harvested, hiking to their private waterfall for a picnic, swimming, guitar music and singing, and then saying good-bye with wistful sadness. Read more?

Patsy and Kristin

Jim's sister Pat and his niece, Kristin, joined us on June 19 in Tahiti and stayed with us until July 6, leaving from Bora Bora. We visited Moorea, Huahine, Taha'a, and Bora Bora with them and had lots of fun! The ladies enjoyed relaxing with coffee and the binoculars on deck in the morning, beach excursions and hotel strolls in the afternoon, dips in the cool blue waters of the anchorage, wine and fine food for dinner each night. Read more?

Leeward Islands (Huahine, Raiatae, Tahaa and Bora Bora)

French Polynesia seems to have it all. The Marquesas are beautiful mountainous islands; the Tuamotus are each a fringe of slender motus, small islands and reef surrounding glorious lagoons. Combine the two and you have the Society Islands, uniquely suited to tourism. Bora Bora is a splendid example, protected from the ocean by the reef. In many places within, it is shallow and sandy, and this geography creates dreamy turquoise 'property' for over-the-water bungalows (hotel rooms). Each has a section of the floor made of glass, and also its own steps to a private sunning platform and a ladder into the water. Quite perfect and quite expensive! Read more?

HEIVA festival - Bora Bora

We were thrilled to be in Bora Bora for the festivities. Back in 1882, the Polynesians began commemorating Bastille Day (14 July, 1789). This has evolved into a festival that lasts for weeks. It cannot be mistaken for something like St. Thomas Carnival or New Orleans Mardi Gras. Its essence is rooted in the celebration of tradition and community. Each day competitions are held - pirogue racing, petanque, javelin throwing, volleyball, tennis, basketball, bicycle racing, and the traditional 'fei' barefoot race carrying many pounds of fruit on a pole over the shoulder. Read more?

Tatouage in Huahine

The three of us have been contemplating getting tattoos here in French Polynesia, and on June 25, the day after Jim's birthday, we DID IT! Tihoti did them for us, of course. Vicki had created her own design, in the Marquesan style, and went first, having the tattoo put on her left foot. Then Jim got a band of traditional design on his right arm, and Dylan got a different band design on his left arm. We are all quite pleased with our tattoos and Jim wants to get another one on his leg. Read more?

Mopelia

The only atoll in all of the Society islands of French Polynesia and our last few weeks in the country that had become our home for more then 7 months! Hospitality, humour, friendship and fun were just some of the experiences we had in Mopelia. The wonderful family of Kalami, Sophie and Tetuanui with whom we made great friends and will never forget, the shark barbeques and the lobster bonanza kept us always enthralled with the generosity of the Polynesian culture. Read more?

The Cook Islands

Rolly anchorages and fishing 'booms' is what we encountered on this South Pacific jewel. We also picked up two more crew members when Frank and Dany arrived for the run West and South. Island touring and surfing added to the fun along with the regular Saturday market! Read more?

Beveridge reef and NIUE

A small isolated reef in the Mid South Pacific with unquestionably safe anchorage in even the most terrible storms gave us cover during some strong reinforced trade winds and we were treated to a wonderful welcoming and farewell party. 'The Rock' was enchanting and super friendly with wondrous adventures through limestone caves, underwater caves, stone arches and more! Read more?

Tonga

The last remaining active Monarchy in the world and a world apart from any other. The Ha'apai, Nomuka and Tongatapu groups provided us with warm waters, blue skies and spectacular scenery. Friends invited us to join in Kava ceremonies and children bedecked us with shells. Beautiful and unforgetable. We even had our own little Kava ceremony with a guest of Honour too! Read more?

Passage to New Zealand

Our bounciest passage yet with the four seasons in one day philosophy being experienced on our final approach to the Bay of Islands. Safety gear and harness were the order of the day and it was good planning that kept us fed. Without the prepared food we may not have eaten at all due to the pitch and roll and occasional lurch! Read more?

NZ - Bay of Islands

Welcome to Aotearoa - The land of the long white cloud - A numbing experience with the almost sub zero conditions on our mid night arrival. Great to be at anchor and not rolling although Frank took some time getting used to the quiet and stillness here in these beautiful islands. Read more?

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